Can you name America's oldest brewery? If visions of outsized draft horses plod to mind, you're way off. Instead, head for the mountains--of northeastern Pennsylvania. In 1829, in Pottsville, German immigrant D.G. Yuengling set up shop to slake the thirst of immigrants flocking to the region's booming anthracite coalfields. Five generations have steered the family-owned brewery through fires, temperance, depressions, Prohibition, and the whims...