Where the Waters Divide: A Walk Across America Along the Continental Divide

This is the tale of Karen Berger's 1990 walk on the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) from Mexico to Canada. As she walks through New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming and Montana (and a bit of Idaho) she explores the nation, its' history and its' people. At the time of Karen's walk the CDT was more of an idea than an actual marked trail, so the made there way mostly with maps and compass. It a personal story of passion, blisters, searching for water, getting drenched by rain, blistering heat and bone chilling cold. And some scary moments including getting lost, as she puts it; "There is the kind of being lost when you don't know exactly where you are but you know that if you keep going...eventually you will get hit a river. There is a kind of being lost where you know about where you are, but it's not where you're supposed to be...There's the kind of being lost where you think you can retrace your steps...and there is the kind of being lost where you have wandered off your map and onto terra incognita... the kind where you can't even decide to go forward or backward because you don't know which way forward and backward might be...We were that kind of lost." As she crosses private ranches she discovers there is more to cowboys than the stereotypes, and she comes to depend on, to some extent, the kindness of mid-western Americans. She fights her fear of grisly bears was she walks through Yellowstone National Park. And she does battle with the National Park Service bureaucracy as they plead for camping permits in Glacier National Park. Overall it is a gripping story. It is currently out of print, but there are still some sources of the book on-line. Well worth reading.

The couple had already hiked the Appalachian Trail (AT) (they met on the trail) and now decided to hike another long-distance trail. But like they soon found out, the CD trail is nothing like the AT. The CD is more remote, more challenging. There is less water along the way and in portions the trail is poorly marked. And in many sections the trail goes through private land that the ranchers guard protectively. I live about 80 miles from the CD in Animas, NM where the story starts. New Mexico was a constantly battle for water and fighting off the cattle that often contaminated the water sites. Sometimes the windmills were dry and abandoned. I think the author's perceived anger toward cattle come from her experiences of near dehydration from no water because what water they did find at times was claimed by the cows. Colorado was all up and down, both figuratively and literally. The 12,000' peaks, the weather on top, spotting a mountain lion, getting too close to a lightning bolt... And then Montana. I was relieved when the couple made it into the Big Sky country but then they had to beat feet to the border because an early winter came that year. The end was anticlimatic, as they reached the Canadian border and the border crossing had just closed for the season. The story was well written and it was obvious the wife was at times physically pushed by her husband. At times she was exhausted when he had no problem. They were helped along the way by an eldery retired couple who'd follow them in their old van at various meeting towns along the way. The couples' conversations in bars with ranchers and cowboys and locals was at times stressful, but I think she handled the diversity well. (But did the locals?) The CD is no AT. After reading this I'm in no way inclined to hike the CD any time soon.

Karen Berger and Dan Smith report from their 3,000 mile trek about issues that are near to the heart of any hiker. They discuss issues around cattle on public land, about the use and misuse of water and about the way hikers influence the land and the people around them. The narrative includes information on the history of the American West and historical 'hikes' such as the Lewis and Clark expedition. By mixing these tidbits with a delightful report of the difficulties and wonders of their hiking they create a book that is best read by candle or flashlight in the comfort of your tent. The only problem is that it is too heavy to take on a long-distance hike. Recommended for anyone contemplating the Continental Divide Trail or any other long distance hike.

Karen has succeeding in writing an intimate, lively book. She succeeds in taking the reader along with her on the trail. Her descriptions are immediate and rich in detail. It is a shame they have elected to leave out Daniel's journal entries. I thought they were a great part of their book about the Pacific Crest Trail. Karen and Dan try to see both sides of the issue, even when they are passionate advocates. This is a rare trait, much to be valued. I think she may need to read Edward Abby's Desert Solitaire again, he is more complicated than she sees him. She paints truly beautiful word pictures of the high country along the divide. I disagree with her on one point. She seems to have compassion and understanding for most wildlife but a pathological dislike for cattle. As an example is her description of the cattle running down the trail ahead of her, looking back in fear. She sees the animal as stupid for not just running away from her. Perhaps she has not recognized this as a herd animal, used to being herded by humans. Maybe the cows were in reality wondering if this crazy human really knew where it wanted her to go! It may be more exasperated than frightened. Just a thought. If you want a sense of what it would be like to hike the Continental Divide this book is for you. I hope Karen & Dan keep hiking and writing.