"I imagine everyone has a center of gravity," says Ellen Bromfield Geld. "Something which binds one to the earth and gives sense and direction to what one does." For Ellen, this center is a writing table before a window that looks out upon groves of pecan trees and mahogany-colored cattle in seas of grass. The place is Fazenda Pau D'Alho, Brazil, where she and her husband, Carson, have lived and farmed since 1961. Healing the ravaged coffee...