The White Death: Tragedy and Heroism in an Avalanche Zone

This book does a great job of blending snow science and the history of human avalanche experience with a compelling personal story of five unfortunate young climbers. If the scientific and historical perspectives in this book had been available to these climbers, their story would likely be a different one. Anyone interested in skiing or climbing in mountainous backcountry should find this book to be informative, intriguing, and, if not for the tragedy, enjoyable. This book presents the dry text of snow science in a package that will hold your interest. Though flawed in its accuracy regarding personal history, details of mountaineering and local geography, it provides knowledge about the nature of snow and its metamorphosis that any mountain adventurer should be aware of. I am sending a copy to a friend who teaches avalanche awareness classes, as I know he'll thoroughly enjoy it...in spite of the tragedy.

I spent several years as the book critic for Outside magazine, during which time I had the opportunity (and sometimes misfortune) to read dozens of books about mountaineering tragedies and triumphs. The White Death is one of the genre's very best, in part because of Jenkins' considerable skills as a storyteller and wordsmith, and in part because--unlike the professional climbers who typically write such tomes--he has healthy skepticism about the sport itself. This is not simply a tale about "tragedy and heroism," as the subtitle indicates, but also about hubris, teen angst and dumb luck. It's also a paean to an extraordinary place (Glacier National Park) and an endlessly fascinating and mysterious phenomenon (snow). Written with flair and suspense, it unfolds with the power of a wall of white cascading down a slope.

As the sister of Ray Martin who was killed in the avalanche of which The White Death is so richly written, I can tell you that every word kept me hanging on the edge of my seat. Knowing firsthand the circumstances surrounding the tragedy, I was still mezmerized by the way McKay Jenkins brought it all together. It was very informative about the mysterious physics of snow layering as well as capturing the very personal and fruitful lives of the five young men who died. Their's was a hunger to seek places of majesty. I have found that sometimes the only people who can begin to understand the risks and rewards of a mountain climber is another mountain climber or someone who is fortunate enough to love them. The great sacrifice and perseverence of all who are courageous enough to search for someone under these tragic circumstances says a great deal about the integrity of these people. Bravo to Mr. Jenkins who did such a splendid job of giving some peaceful closure to such a painful time in our lives.

Like "Into Thin Air", "The Perfect Storm" and almost any book by McKay's mentor Peter Matthieson, The White Death both grips you and informs you. McKay spins out the story of five boys on a mountain slowly, letting the suspense build as he provides more information on avalanches than could be found in any one place. He pitches the book at a level that flatters the reader's intellect. You get it, but you never feel he has watered it down for that purpose.A footnote: I met McKay last summer in Nicaragua. I like him personally and hoped the book would be good. I was up until 1:00 AM to finish it. That's more than friendship -- that's a good read.

McKay Jenkins did a wonderful job of capturing the the bittersweet of the one who climbs. As a sister of Raymond Martin, I can tell you I was deeply moved by the words and his expertise at keeping my eyes on the pages. I could not put the book down. I regret only that my mother, Ruby, didn't get to see the final piece of work. She related to us the kindness and empathy that Mr. Jenkins expressed during the interviews. I stood at that mountain floor many times since the tragedy and am still in awe of the great beauty which Jenkins painted so poetically in his book. The spirit and courage of the climber is known only to the spirit of another climber and sometimes to those who were fortunate enough to love him/her. Mr. Jenkins has obviously felt the pain and the exhilaration of reaching the heights and the defeats while exploring the masterpieces in nature. Many thanks for his talent and for his informative understanding of the powers of nature. I am eternally grateful for the many people who opened their arms to my family and for those people who spent time on the mountain in search for the boys. Mr. Jenkins depicted their integrity and courage very well.