The Second Death of George Mallory: The Enigma and Spirit of Mount Everest

Reinhold Messner is universally considered one of the greatest climbers who ever lived if not the greatest. When I asked for a copy of this book at the bookstore I was in, the clerk behind the counter replied to me "You know, Messner is God!" I was not taken aback. I have always been amazed at his abilities and determination. His sheer determinations are awe-inspiring. These qualities are not lost in his writings. I found this book to be very interesting and probing. Messner always raises the bar. I believe he did so in this book. Messner's talents do not restrict themselves to climbing. He is an excellent writer. This book is necessary read for anyone interested in George Mallory and Sandy Irvine. Sadly, I do not believe they reached the summit. I am sorry that they did not. However, that is an unpleasant fact. Until proven otherwise. Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary (not Sir Edmund Hillary alone) reached the summit together. This does not take away from George Mallory by any means. He, if truth be told, was a noble but inconsistent man. His inconsistency is generally considered to be his choice of Sandy Irvine who in time had he lived might have conquered the mountain. However, his experience was inadequate for the task. However, we may never really know what happened. Did Mr. Mallory fall or did Mr. Irvine? At this point, most evidence points to Mr. Mallory falling on the mountain. However, no one knows why. In my opinion, Mr. Messner's book is a real page-turner.

Although not a climber I have read and enjoyed many books about Everest, individual climbers, and other noted mountains as well. The Author of this book, Mr. Reinhold Messner, is a climbing legend who has accomplished a list of firsts that is almost beyond imagining. Even when he chooses a challenge other than the world's highest peaks, it is to walk across Antarctica and Greenland. He is a man of strong convictions that I imagine will upset many. However he has the personal expertise, and a history of accomplishment that gives credence to his thoughts. He is a practitioner of what he speaks.Since the disaster of 1996 that claimed two of the world's great climbers and several of their clients there have been a number of books written about this tallest of mountains. Many have focused on placing blame, and that is an issue for each individual to judge based upon who is writing, and whom they are writing about.Mr. Messner speaks of a second death, which occurred when the ability to write a check became the necessary qualification to attempt Everest. When a mountain that is spoken, and often written of, in awe struck manor has become in spots a junkyard with the highest elevation. Everest has become an extreme sport for the wealthy, some of which remain on the mountain forever.He tells the tale of the three attempts that Mr. Mallory made, adds his own thoughts, and some hypothetical thoughts of Mallory as well. This last element could have been terribly contrived, but here it was an excellent addition to the book, and skillfully written. That it succeeded may in part be due to the philosophy of the man who wrote this book and the man who is the primary subject of it. For them and others like them, the guided tourist attraction that Everest has become is or would have been anathema to them.Mr. Messner also gave the best description of whether or not Mallory and Irvine made the Summit. He is objective and keeps his admiration for those who tried separate from what he believes to be true. It was great reading, and it is a shame that the commercial review had to spoil it for readers. If you have not read it please don't, enjoy Mr. Messner's work as it was meant to be read.While it is true that Mr. Mallory died on the mountain it is also true he was qualified to be there. He spent more time on and around Everest in clothing that would not be enough for most to venture out to shovel their driveway in. The technology available to him was virtually nil compared to today. But as Mr. Messner points out, Mr. Mallory's reason for climbing and his abilities not only qualified him then, but also continue to keep him in the Pantheon of the greatest climbers ever to have stepped on Everest, and a man who did so with respect for the mountain, and not for profit, and without endangering the lives of others.