Change looms in Havana, Cuba's capital, a city electric with uncertainty yet cloaked in clich , 90 miles from U.S. shores and off-limits to most Americans. Journalist Julia Cooke, who lived there at intervals over a period of five years, discovered a dynamic scene: baby-faced anarchists with Mohawks gelled with laundry soap, whiskey-drinking children of the elite, Santer a trainees, pregnant prostitutes, university graduates planning to leave for...