First on Everest: The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine

Several works have currently been released to capitalize on the public fascination surrounding the discovery of George Leigh Mallory's remains in 1999. Most are by members who took part in that expedition and I suppose we can't begrudge them for cashing in on their moment of fame. Many are unaware that previous exeditions have been mounted to find out what happened to Mallory and Irvine. In 1986 Tom Holzel reignited interest, if not generally then among the climbing community, in the posibility that evidence may still exist to prove that Malllory and Irvine beat Hillary to the top of Everest by 30 years. Thanks largely to Tom Holzel that interest has never flagged. This work THE MYSTERY OF MALLORY AND IRVINE should be the starting point from which those interested should embark. If one is merely interested in oggling pictures of a corpse then by all means skip straight to Ghosts of Everest by J. Hemmleb but for those more interested in the man rather than the cadaver there are few biographies as exhaustive as this one. Although delving into speculative arts (questioning sexual orientation seems a bit tacky) there is much use of correspondence between Mallory, his friends and family, which assists in giving flesh to a mere biography. Those interested in the adventure of the Everest expeditions will also appreciate the thoroughness of Mr Holzel's research. Much of what is presented is not speculative as it is presented with the corroboration of personal correspondence. It is only the events of summit day June 8th, 1924 that speculation takes over. We know more now than when this book was first written and subsequent editions will no doubt fill in the missing data. Is Irvine still out there clutching the Kodak? I doubt it but till he's found the debate will continue as will our fascination.

Holzel's name is mud among the British Climbing establishment, ever since he managed to corral a genuine Everest historican--his co-author Audrey Salkeld--and write this book. Actually, it was mud long before. In the early '70s, this American businessman and amateur climber had the audacity to spring a theory on the British public that one of their greatest heroes--George Mallory--might have succeeded, rather than failed to have climbed Mt. Everest in 1924. The British Climbing Establishment, a number of who knew and revered Mallory, were outraged. Had this foreign interloper no sense of history, no shame?The statement that proved his total lack of knowledge of this epic saga, the critics patiently explained to the media, was his claim that proof could still be found on the body of one of the climbers--he said it would be Irvine-who should still be found on a snow terrace on Mt. Everest at 8200m. If somebody would only go and look, the camera Irvine was carrying would hold pictures of the fatal climb, perhaps even showing a photo from the summit. The clamor rose a few decibels more when in 1979 Holzel reported to the NY Times that the body of "an English dead" had been found on Everest's North Face at 8100m by a Chinese porter who--get this--died the day after reporting his find. Another "Everest Ghost" the British public exclaimed. "How convenient" the establishment elders muttered.In 1986, Holzel and Salkeld mounted an expedition to the north side of Everest to search for the body at 8200m. They failed in all respects save one. On literally the last day of their three-month expedition, Holzel managed to meet with the tent-mate of the person who claimed to have found the English dead. This claim had been strenuously denied by the Chinese Mountaineering Association, and other government officials. But the tent-mate admitted that Wang Hung-Bao had said he had indeed found "a foreign mountaineer."This classic book contains two exciting stories: First there is the story of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine who were last spotted seemingly a few hours below the summit of the world's highest peak, which raised the glorious possibility that they had perhaps reached the summit before perishing on the descent. Salkeld in particular has tracked down and discovered a trove of unpublished letters, and theirs is the first modern reading of Mallory the man, a reading much necessitated in view of the previous biographies, many of which verge on hagiography. And there is the second story, equally fascinating, of the authors' heroic efforts to find out what did happen. It is this story, a modern tale, that shows how large a role is played by luck when the ambition is there to pave its path.There are now a slew of new books on this stirring subject-most based on the Simonson Expedition of 1999 which discovered the body--not of Irvine--but of George Mallory himself, and--astonishingly--discovered it exactly where

I read the 1986 edition of this book and I am completely attracted to the authors' dedication toward the subject and, in my mind, the heroes of mankind of the last century, namely, Mallory and Irvine.I read this revised edition of 1999 ( when Mallory's body was unearthed in May'1999 ) and I continue to be amazed by Holzel and Salkeld, and their total commitment toward the subject and the intricacies they have zeroed in. The sad thing is, the Camera of 1924 could not be found on the body of Mallory, nor any trace of Irvine. I do hope , in the near future,we could be so lucky to unearth the Camera and solve the enduring mystery i.e. Are Mallory & Irvine the first persons on the top of Everest ? I am waiting for the answer to come out and hope , by then, Holzel and Salkeld could put the puzzle together for us.

The book is of two parts--an interesting biography of Geo. Mallory (including some nude photos!), Bloomsbury darling and Everest pioneer--and a detailed examination of his 3rd attempt on Everest. The authors come very close to proving that, because he was using oxygen, Mallory must have made it to the top, given where he was last sighted, and his carefully established climb rates. Holzel startled the climbing world by predicting the location of Mallory's body--for which he was blasted by the British climbing stablishmen --only to have the prediction come true ten years later! A great feat of historical detective work, if sometimes a bit complicated (oxygen flow rates, etc.) He and Salkeld went to Everest looking for Mallory's camera which Kodak says could still hold developable film (frozen all this time). So final proof awaits the next generation