The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mount Everest

This is an interesting, concise account of the 1999 discovery of George Mallory, possibly the first to climb Mt. Everest. In 1924 Everest veteran Mallory and his promising junior partner Andrew Irvine famously disappeared some 1000 feet below the summit. Did they reach it before they perished, 29 years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay? In 1999, Conrad Anker of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition found Mallory. Yet the great question remains. In this book Anker and fellow climber David Roberts discuss Mallory's life, the discovery, what Mallory and Irvine mean to them. Anker recounts his attempt to replicate a key part of Mallory's climb. Roberts' biography of Mallory alternates with Anker's account of the events of 1999. After finding Mallory, Anker's team removed key items he was carrying, which were both clues and historic artifacts. They also published photographs of part of the body. Some called this desecration. Anker responds. Interestingly, Anker and his collegues all initially thought they had found Irvine. Mallory's camera was absent, much to everyone's disappointment. A few days later, Anker and his partners assisted in a rescue. Afterwards, fresh snow obscured the search region, scrapping a planned search for Irvine and the camera. Roberts discusses Mallory's somewhat bohemian youth, his attitudes about bottled oxygen, his prior climbing achievements, and his famous quote: "Because it's there". A full chapter is devoted to the 1924 expedition, discussing why Mallory chose to climb with Irvine, Teddy Norton and David Somervell's record climb just before Mallory's attempt, and Noel Odell's tantalizing last sight of the lost pair. The book concludes with Anker's account of his own summit climb, his near-disastrous descent, and his best speculation about George Mallory and Andrew Irvine's fate. His reluctant conclusion: the key obstacle called the Second Step was most likely unclimbable under 1924 conditions, the two turned back there if not earlier, and they fell to their deaths descending as fresh snow fell. This fascinating book is dedicated to Mallory and Irvine, who both authors greatly admire regardless of the exact events of June 8, 1924.

I became interested in finding out more about George Mallory after watching a television documentary describing the discovery of his body in May,1999. When I learned that one of the climbers on that expedition had co-authored a book describing the historical find I knew I wanted to read it.By reading it, a lot can be learned about climbing, even by a "grounded" reader like myself. Being a non-climber, I really wasn't aware of the mystique and high regard in which Mallory is held within the community of men and women who challenge themselves to the extremes of mental, emotional and physical endurance by pitting themselves against the unforgiving mountains "because they are there".The book provides extensive insight into the psyche of Mallory and Conrad Anker, the man who found his body. The talent to climb, the courage to confront the ultimate challenges and the respect and awe held for the mountains, especially Everest, seem to be shared by both.In my estimation the book accomplished what it set out to do. Most importantly, it preserved Mallory's legend. He was treated with reverance and his feats and accomplishments become more mind boggling when you consider the technological limitations with which he worked.It helped provide insight into why people climb mountains. Mountaineering taps into the competitive nature of man; Everest is seen as an opponent that needs to be conquered. It is the proving ground that measures a person's mettle and stimulates the instinct for self survival.The book spends time desribing Andrew Irvine, incredible in his own right, and sheds light on why he was chosen as Mallory's partner for that fateful climb.The book also addresses the question on most readers' minds, "Did Mallory summit?". Anker followed in Mallory's footsteps and attempted to duplicate the climb. That helped him theorize that Mallory did not make it to the top. He explains clearly why he reached that conclusion and identifies several points that justify his conclusion. He even hypothesizes how Mallory and Irvine died and where Irvine's body might be located.Finally, this illuminating book offers several anecdotes that both entertain and educate about the most dangerous and exhilirating sport known to man.

This book provides a great story about an incredible discovery. I really enjoyed the balance between Roberts' historical perspective and Anker's first-hand experience. While we may never know for sure whether Mallory and Irvine made the summit, or what exactly happened on their final attempt to reach the summit, this book provides solid information and analysis via thoroughly enjoyable writing, which is more than we've ever had before. Excellent job!

Anker's opinion on the M/E Team was very well noted in TLE and I found this an excellent read. In fact, I was overjoyed that ONE TEAM can participate on the same expedition and have TWO different opinions on what happened in 1924! Since, I will never set foot on this mountain, I need both trains of thought to guide me to my own opinion of what could've happened. I'd say read both The Lost Explorer and The Ghosts of Everest!

This is the best of the Mallory books for several reasons. It is by far the best written, and it also has the most believable, most rational analysis of Mallory's disappearance. Anker did not sell out. He simply didn't agree with the party line that Hemmleb/Simonson/Johnson were trying to foist on the world--that Mallory climbed Everest--so he decided to do his own book, in order that his own ideas could find an audience. If you read this book carefully, and compare it to the horrible writing and irresponsible speculation of the Hemmleb/Simonson/Johnson book, you will appreciate what an important book "The Lost Explorer" is. It's sad that the Hemmleb-Simonson camp has launched a smear campaign against Anker. If Anker hadn't been on the expedition, they would never have found Mallory, they would never have climbed the Second Step, and they would never have reached the summit. I am glad Anker wrote this book. If you read it, you'll be glad too.