Fashion in Shrouds

As talented and popular in the 1930s and 1940s as fellow mystery writers Agatha Christie and Dorothy Sayers, Margery Allingham is now, inexplicably, almost forgotten, except by mystery aficionados. Writing a series of novels featuring Albert Campion, a man of mysterious background who moves comfortably both in aristocratic circles and in the seedy underworld of thugs and criminals, Allingham sets up elaborate plots that cross class lines and entertain the reader with their cleverness. Campion, often aided by Lugg, a former burglar, manages to remain friendly with local police inspectors while operating as a private detective, often hired by the titled nobility with whom he associates. This novel, written in 1938, opens with the discovery of the fully clothed skeleton of a man who disappeared three years before. A lawyer hoping for a judgeship, the deceased was the fiancé of Georgia Wells, a stage actress and seductress who married someone else just six months after his disappearance. Campion's sister Val, who runs a high fashion design house, is also involved in the mystery, as are the man she loves, who runs an aircraft company trying to sell planes to a foreign country, and Georgia's present husband, a self-important snob who works for the government. The mystery is unusually intricate, and when two more deaths occur, Campion must investigate questions of blackmail, secret relationships, drug shipments, an out-of-the-way restaurant, and characters who look like other characters. He must also deal with a former acquaintance, Lady Amanda Fitton, who has returned--and unexpectedly announced her engagement to him. Highly entertaining and very fast paced, the novel is cleverly written and full of intrigue, populated with characters who have more substance than the cardboard characters one finds in most mysteries. Allingham's ability to incorporate details of time and place--and class--give this novel a lively sense of the atmosphere of prewar England and the attitudes of its population, not all of them admirable. Elitism, bigotry, and class prejudice are all given voice in this novel, and play a part in the mystery. Far more literary in style than Agatha Christie, Allingham employs a good deal of humor and irony, though Albert Campion is more phlegmatic than Lord Peter Wimsey (Dorothy Sayer's detective) and less exaggerated than Christie's Hercule Poirot. Allingham, a fine writer, creates well developed plots and memorable characters, and one hopes that her work will be reprinted for a new audience. n Mary Whipple

One of the author's most accomplished novels. At once an elegant and deftly-observed social satire in the manner of Thackeray and an ingeniously complicated detective story, the book is virtually flawless. Campion is in superb form throughout, both as detective pitting his wits against a superhuman Nemesis of a murderer, and as a lover (even going to the extent of throwing his fiancée in the lake during a quarrel); Lugg is as amusing as ever; and there is much interest in the character and methods of the villain, "who can set the murderous Machiavel to school," weaving webs of a subtlety and diabolical ingenuity matched only by his creator.

The delightful tale finds Albert Campion working his way through a Chinese puzzle of fashion designers, theatrical and entertainment people trying to solve the disappearance and death of the son of a friend. Richard Portland-Smith, a successful attorney, engaged to the beautiful actress Georgia Wells, disappeared without a trace several years ago, and his remains have finally been found by Campion, apparently having committed suicide. Campion gets the help of his sister, Val, a well-known designer, in meeting the actress, hoping to unravel the reason for Richard's death. Instead, Campion is drawn into the glittery world of high fashion and theater, where appearances are often confused with reality. When Georgia's husband Sir Raymond Ramillies dies under suspicious circumstances Val is implicated and Albert goes into high gear. He uncovers one ugly secret after another, but the pieces never seem to quite fit together. Motives such as blackmail, greed, drugs and jealousy all abound but Campion is unable to pinpoint a suspect who has both means and opportunity.This is one of Allingham's longest novels, and certainly is the most complex. It provides glimpses into London's fashion and theatrical world as well as some shattering demonstrations of the prejudices and flaws of the Great Britain's rich and famous. Written in 1938, the book reflects the morality of the times. A sensitive reader may find some statements that are, to put it mildly, politically incorrect. These are unfortunate, and provide an insight into the thinking of the upper classes on either side of the Atlantic, but should not be permitted to detract from the overall quality of the novel.One of the special delights of this novel is the reappearance of Amanda Fitton, heroine of the "The Gyrth Chalice Mystery." She comes to Albert, seeking help, after a hiatus of six years, and manages to become engaged to him in the space of one evening. She becomes Campion's loyal, if irreverent, assistant and very nearly steals the whole novel. Lugg also gets in his share of grumping and grousing. "The Fashion in Shrouds" is one of Allingham's best, serving up mystery, humor, suspense and social commentary in great big, heaping doses.

Fashion in Shrouds, an Albert Campion mystery, is an exceedingly well-written mystery novel that functions equally well as whodunnit and character study. While many mysteries focus around theater and theater people, Allingham's look at their characters lacks either sentimentality or malice, and provides one of the most focused and accurate portrayals that I've ever read.

The Fashion in Shrouds is a wonderful novel and one of Margery Allingham's best Campion mysteries. One of the things that distinguishes it from your run-of-the-mill mystery is that it focuses clearly (and sometimes brutally) on the main characters and subtly draws the reader into their world. The author also provides some stunningly honest viewpoints on relationships between men and women that are relevant and insightful even today. A great book.