Crystal Horizon: Everest: The First Solo Ascent

I agree that Messner's not a writer, but he has done an amazing job of opening up this trip and inviting the reader in. The machinations with the Chinese government, the permit hassle, the race to beat the other climber who wanted to try it, the Trek through Tibet to base camp - all of this shows the experience that he had. I'd suggest to those who say "he should have told more of this and less of that" that he told it perfectly, as what he told was HIS experience of the climb, which for him was the entire experience, from the planning to the paper hassle all the way to the top and back. I love the photographs as well; the very fact that they're not professional makes it seem more immediate - well, THIS is what he was interested enough to photograph. The spirit that performed this admittedly lunatic act is the spirit that took the first fire, that first took a boat past view of land, that crossed the Pacific in canoes, that brought the Spanish Explorers to the New World, that put a man on the moon. The final touch is the contrast between his writing and his girlfriend's diary entries, especially once they get to base camp. He portrays the inner life of a completely obsessed person, while she described how he appears to others. The contrast between her very conventional thinking and feeling and his single-mindedness is fascinating. I remember thinking how brave he was to let himself be portrayed the way he comes across in this book, then it occured to me that cowardice is probably not one of Messner's faults! At times, I almost felt I understood what it's like to live in that clean, cold, hard mind of no fear. I thank him for sharing himself.

This is an excellent book. I have not read another book about mountain climbing with such an interest. Messner is very good at describing his emotions. Translation is not the best one. I read this book in both Russian and English translations. I liked Russian translation a lot more.

This book is truly a mountaineering masterpiece, but it might not seem so to those unaccustomed to Messner's writing style. Much appears to be lost in the translation to any English first-time reader. But I've read nearly all of his books and have learned how to soak it all in. Hidden in the sometimes laborious writings are crystal-clear windows into Reinhold's experiences and thoughts. His solo, oxygenless ascent is generally considered one of the most impressive events in mountaineering history. Considering that the ascent was undertaken during the monsoon makes it all that much more incredible.

I could not say anything less then that Reinhold Messner's "The Crystal Horizon" is a great book. It is not a usual climber's book, but rather a strange mix of history, politics, religion, geography, meteorology, personal history and world views of the man who is beyond doubt the greatest living mountaineer. The book deals with the first solo accent of Mnt. Everest, accomplished during the monsoon season. It is ravenously illustrated and photographed. It is an exciting adventure. It is a riot and a sad story of a man who escapes to the mountain to find peace. It is well worth you time. One should forgive Messner (or rather his translator) some awkward sentence structures, punctuated by the action and verbal phrases put at the end of sentence, and quite frequent exercises in the obscure mix of native religion, Buddhist witticisms and Central European Christianity. I do however, applaud the honesty and occasional beauty of those philosophical excesses, particularly when he talks about feeling akin to Sisyphus when climbing and when he exhibits the diary entries of his girlfriend which does not always portrays him in the best light possible.Overall, I enjoyed this book a lot.

this guy, Reinhold Messner, is at least one standard deviation beyond the world's greatest mountain climbers. he climbed everest solo and in the alpine style: not relying on any artificial means such as bottled oxygen, or assistance from Sherpas or even a climbing partner. it was the first solo ascent of the highest mountain "by fair means". note: Reinhold Messner was also the first to climb everest without oxygen, with his climbing partner, Peter Habeler, previous to this solo ascent. it was such an incredible feat at the time that many people frankly doubted it. the man is physically gifted, has tremendous will, and the courage to attempt not just an act that had never been done, but one that most experts believed was impossible. he was a visionary. and, he made his attempt from the tibetan side, which is the more difficult route. plus, he was also not getting along with his girlfriend at the time which may or may not have made it easier. his literary talents are passable, but that's not important. most important is content. he comes across as genuine, and gives the reader biographical glimpses of his personality which opens him up to petty criticism from sources whose main accomplishments probably have been reading books. this man is a purist and a rare genius of extreme climbing whose unparalled feats of mountaineering did not receive adequate recognition. so be it. let history be the final judge of his deeds. he will come out on top.