Surf Is Where You Find It

I highly recommend this book to anyone who has ever surfed or who would like to know what surfing is all about. I have known Gerry for over 30 years and have always held him in the highest regard. He is the most natural surfer ever. From the most perfect wave to the worst, Gerry can always shine. He compliments the natural, sometimes violent, movement of the wave and turns it into an art form. This book is the story, the culture and the spirit of surfing. Aloha, Gerry for writing this very sensitive and thorough book

Gerry is really like that: laid back, not interested in ego tripping and probably one of the top pioneers in surfing history. Oh yeah and probably the best style surfer ever. He truly defines courage: he's scared to death but does it anyway, and oh so well. The message in the book is simple. . .and immense. Straight to the heart with no bs along the way. Funny, warm and totally peaceful. The zen master of surfing. He makes it seem so easy, but you know he just worked his tail off and still does to be that good. Anyone who thinks that surfers don't have a work ethic needs to read this book. So does everybody else. He talks story just like that. Doesn't take credit, he just shares his experiences. And what experiences they are. Wow! All those incredible people and all those incredible places. I've been a surfer for 40+ years and he is all I ever wish I could have been and wasn't. I teach surfing; he teaches me. He has so much story to tell that he kind of skips around from here to there and you know he could probably write a couple more books just like this one, and I hope he does. Hawaii, G-land, Bali, Chile. . .on and on and you know it just scratches the surface. More please. Savor this book. Read it one story at a time. Take your time and let the overall ride take you where it goes. Just like surfing.

maybe its because i'm somewhat new to surfing, but i found this book fascinating. the author's writing style was not boastful or exaggerated, but very descriptive and fluid. in addition to the great stories there is a very gentle but important message to the book, and i have found myself thinking about it often. i have given several copies to friends as gifts. i hope the author writes another book.

I've always liked Gerry Lopez. Sure he was made into a kind of God in Big Wednesday, where I first heard about him, but there is no denying his style and grace in difficult waves. And what's more, after seeing him at G-Land in Endless Summer 2, he also showed he had a good sense of humour and was a great bloke as well. And so when I saw this book come out, I ordered it and found it reveals yet another great side to Gerry Lopez, an intelligent writer, and a thoughtful, rounded person with a great perspective on surfing and life. What a true legend. Lopez was there when Bali and Java was just beginning to take off in the 70s and 80s, being amongst the first to surf the world-class waves there. He talks about places I've surfed and can relate to-like never, ever allowing yourself to get caught inside at inside G Land's Speedies reef on a big day, or just how far you can go back in the tube at Uluwatu on a big day. Everyone knows he was amongst the standouts on the North Shore for years in the 70s, but he was also amongst the first to see Jaws before tow-ins. There is stories here on Chile, the Mentawais, Hawaii, Australia etc, and good historical stuff from the 60s and 70s-including his best ever day at Pipeline-a west swell with a 26 second period. He has surfed all over the world for decades, and this book contains some of his best memories and stories from those travels. He doesn't care much for the sometimes pretentious surf magazines, sponserships and inflated egos that can sometimes pervade surf culture today, he'd rather be out in remote Indo, Hawaii or Oregon with just his board and the ocean. Need I say more? This book is superb surf writing, one of my favourites. Now I only want to see my other favourite surf legend and unpretentious traveller-Tom Curren- write a book as well.

This is a much more philosophical book than one might suspect at first glance. Yes, the stories are about surfing and waves, but the underlying narrative is about HOW TO LIVE. Outstanding collection. Much wisdom.