Weary of what he called the "tyranny" of western art, Brian Sewell first visited Turkey--a country that had captivated him since he was a boy--in 1975. He thought that there, anything he found would have no relevance to the European art that he had so compulsively "stitched in to the dense fabric of my art-historical memory" and that he could therefore enjoy the art for its own sake. But Turkey surprised him, and he delighted in the unexpected wealth...