Smile When You're Lying: Confessions of a Rogue Travel Writer

Two of my favorite pleasures are traveling and writing. On the way out of a local bookstore I ran across "Smile When You're Lying," a tome that promised to deal with both topics in a brutally honest manner. That was enough to pique my interest, so the next day I made a special trip back to the bookstore to grab a copy. I'm glad to say it was well worth the effort. Besides making a living, one of Chuck Thompson's goals with "Smile When You're Lying" is to debunk the typical pap that passes for travel writing. He casts a gimlet eye on the purple prose used to sell tourists on trendy areas, and supplies various bad examples under headings like "Death to Clichés" (see this review's title for a rapturous demo). Mr. Thompson also peels back the idyllic veneer of various exotic destinations to reveal their seamy underbelly, and shows how some have been spoiled by too much publicity and tourism. He uses many examples from his own exploits, like when all his money was ripped off during a Thailand romp, a tightly scripted and heavily monitored PR trip to a swanky Dominican Republic resort, or his shaky tenure running a now-defunct travel magazine. The author is about my age, and like him I've spent time in Thailand, Japan, and the Philippines. I had a blast seeing those old haunts through his eyes and reliving my own off-the-wall experiences in Bangkok, Roppongi, and Olongapo. He also shares my somewhat cynical sense of humor, leavened with a genuine love for travel and experience. Plus, he writes about some places I'd like to see (Alaska, Eastern Europe) and a career that holds a certain fantasy appeal (travel writer). And his travel tips are funny and useful, some of which I've learned the hard way. All of this synchronicity drew me in, and I kept my face in the book as much as time allowed. In addition to the commonalities, I enjoyed the author's brisk writing style and humorous storytelling - it's always fun to have a couple of laugh-out-loud moments while reading. I was also impressed with how he kept his wits about him during some scary travel experiences, such as the Thailand incident mentioned above (where he received help from some generous fellow travelers) or the run-in with an aggressively gay bandit leader in the Philippines. Indeed, sometimes it's best to vicariously experience another's misadventures, since I've always worried about falling hip-deep into a vacation gone sour. The author even jacks up some travel industry big shots. He bemoans Lonely Planet's "ceaselessly strident PC tone," and crowns Rick Steves a "Dufus King." It's at these points (and in others like his worst-case scenario about the death of international travel) that he skirts the darker edges of pessimism. But ultimately I didn't sense any meanness or sour grapes in these critiques. Rather, his observations were more of an admonition to the travel industry's current state and a reality check concerning its possible futures. Bottom line, Mr. Thompso

A humourous, well-written book that I could not put down. At a few points I laughed out loud during my commute on the train. I definitely recommend it to anyone that travels.

This is a very funny, insightful, and highly literate book. It's really not just about travel. It's part humor, part polemic, part memoir and it is this variation of narrative that served to hold my interest from start to finish. It's also peopled with some great characters--which gives it a depth that very few travel books have. Thompson can be savage at times, but his targets in just about every case deserve what he dishes out. For example, The Lonely Planeteers have had it coming for a long time for a level of smugnesss that borders on dementia--and Thompson gives it to 'em good! The section on hackneyed travel writing was one of my favorite parts ("a bewitching blend of the ancient and modern") and should be mandatory reading not just for travel writers, but for ALL writers-- sort of a humorous "Politics and the English Language" for travel writing. But it's not just venom. Other parts show a real affection for the people and places that the writer has encountered outside of the disneyfied destinations that disappoint us all. Highly recommended on any level but especially great for a long plane trip.

Every once in a long while a razor sharp writer comes along worthy of being added to that short list of smart, hilarious, one-of-a-kinds in the mainly hacked to death travel lit arena. Chuck Thompson is my vote for 2008. Smile When You're Lying is not for the faint-hearted. You probably won't see Thompson on Oprah this year, and if you're looking for a warm, fuzzy, found-myself-in-Bhutan-and-Tuscany holiday read, you're in for a shock. But if you want to laugh your head off while being led behind the iron curtain of travel industry gloss by a guy who's logged his share of dollar-a-word time in junket boot camp - you'd be very wise to read this book. And you'll be even wiser after reading it. Thompson's well-argued manifesto about the pallid fantasy of travel journalism is contrarian but self-deprecating, soap-box free and most importantly very very funny. And supported by his own wildly varied experiences in the field. His whac-a-mole, memoir-style route around the globe (Alaska, Philippines, some hellhole in Germany etc.) is filled with savvy insights you won't find in a library of Lonely Planets (which get their due here too). A wildly refreshing read from a seasoned traveler with the cojones to compare teaching English in Japan to making panda babies (just read the book and you'll get it) and opining that all the Caribbean really needs is a fresh coat of paint and ten years without tourists. Highly recommended.

If it was only an expose on the workings of the travel guide industry--you'll never look at LONELY PLANET the same way--it would be a great read, but Chuck Thompson also writes about his own extensive globetrotting with affection (this is a man who genuinely loves to experience other cultures) and anger (except when they rob him and steal all his money), meaning as a bonus you get an example of what a travel guide truly SHOULD be. Buy it and discover there's more to life than FROMMER'S.