Lonely Planet Round Ireland in Low Gear

Those who have given this work low scores are doing it a serious injustice. It is definitely not an example of perky, predictably upbeat travel writing, but is instead a thoughtful, moody, highly literate and contemplative treatment of a deliberately oddball adventure -- to bicycle through Ireland, at the age of 66, in the chill of winter. It may be that those who have rated this work poorly are fans of Irish tourism who picked it up expecting it to validate their enthusiasm in a predictable way, and were blindsided when it turned out to be something completely different. But it is far above the norm for travel writing. The author and his wife both have a great, dry sense of humor, and Newby deftly captures the character of all kinds of amusing types they come in contact with. He is known for his thoughtful travel literature -- in the New York Review of Books recently, Larry McMurty revealed that he has been re-reading one of Newby's other travelogues, 'Slowly Down the Ganges', more or less continuously since it was published in 1964.

The author and his wife, sexagenarians both, took four tours of Ireland in one year in the 1980s, mainly by bicycle. The author has no inclination to conceal his rather acerbic personality, so you may find yourself rooting for the trucks early on. But keep reading, there's many a worthwhile nugget awaiting, and it's easy enough to discard the refuse. By page 291, when the author or his editors or the Lonely Planet reprinters get the spelling of "fuchsia" right on the fourth attempt, you will feel that anything is possible. So when the author cuts short his description of the final leg, decides not to undertake a planned trip to Northern Ireland, and leaves the book in its present rather untrim state, you're apt to feel a considerable sadness.The maps provided by Lonely Planet add value to this edition.

I picked up this book at the library while researching my Irish background: my great-grandpa was born in Aghagower, a little village in Co. Mayo at the foot of Croagh Patrick, which Newby climbs in the course of his travels. But that chapter so amused me that I ended up reading the whole book and enjoying it immensely. Newby and his wife are ideal travelers, willing to try just about anything and to find delight and humor in the unlikeliest circumstances. As a British "outsider," Newby's perspective on Ireland is unsentimental -- especially compared with American visitors, who are inclined to gush or to see the whole country through glasses tinted by "The Quiet Man" and "Danny Boy." But Newby lacks the prejudices and stereotypes that often slant British travelers' views of the Irish, so his encounters with the locals are straightforward and non-condescending. I'm glad that the book has been reissued with improved maps -- the originals were maddeningly vague, especially if one had a yen to emulate any of Newby's travels. This book inspired me to do some bicycle touring in Ireland myself (well, maybe next year), and I'm pleased to see that it's back in print.

Newby still is a wonderful travel writer. he's funny, stubborn, typically English. After you've red this book you can't wait to go to Ireland (only not in february)