Pierre Gagnaire grew up on the outskirts of the industrial city of Saint-Ètienne--a gastronomic wasteland in central France. And so the soon-to-be legendary French chef found himself free of culinary ties, thus free to choose and mix ingredients as he pleased and free to disregard traditions, but always driven by logic and good taste. Since he opened his first restaurant in 1980, Gagnaire has become famous for the architectural nature of his dishes--sometimes...