On the Grand Trunk Road: A Journey into South Asia

Steve Coll's book "On the Grand Trunk Road" reads like a Robert Ludlum novel interlaced with intrigue, deception and brute force. His investigative reporting and personal interviews with military generals, politicians and clerics, amid the violence, corruption and backstabbing were vividly described. He recounted the internecine wars that were being fought in villages and towns along the "Grand Trunk Road" where innocent people were its victims. India's multifaceted culture, including dialects, religion and ethnicities, was damaged by British colonialism and, in 1947, by the partitioning and its aftermath. The physical grouping of Hindus and Muslims, into two separate countries, continues to fester with religious and ethnic hatred spewing across borders, in all directions, which accounts for much of the animosity and venom depicted in his book. The book also describes the history of the Taliban and its relationship with the ISI and the Pakistani military, as well as the involvement of the CIA. Tribal sentiments account for the kindredness between groups in northern Pakistan and Afghanistan. Tribal laws were established in north Pakistan, where Afghan fundamentalist groups reside, conducting raids against other tribes with impunity, notwithstanding the sovereignty of the state and its military presence. In an effort to support the war in Afghanistan, Pakistan was used as a "staging area" for US military weapons, which were being moved secretly over the Peshawar trail. Steve Coll's biographical and historical report of India and Pakistan political leaders was very enlightening. He cited other events taking place in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Nepal, which provided pertinent information on the condition of life in these South Asian countries. He also presented detailed descriptions of child soldiers and separatist groups, who conducted insurgent plots against the Sri Lankan government. Readers will gain insight into the precarious and volatile political environment that exists in South Asia and its impact on the economy and the domestic life. The picture he "paints" is not pretty. The average citizen in South Asia faces a world of poverty, uncertainty, violence and a political system that has run amuck. The scope and magnitude of the demographic and geopolitical spectrum of South Asian countries makes it an interesting and exciting book to read. However, at times, it was difficult to comprehend the complex issues involving deep-seated emotions and the mind-set of those with political and tribal connections. I was also disappointed that maps were not included for easy reference--even with this updated edition. To follow the story better,I retrieved a detailed map from a National Geographic Magazine article, issued in May 1990, entitled "Searching for India: Along the Grand Truck Road" which, after reading it, was the basis for my interest in purchasing his book.

Steve Coll's "On the Grand Trunk Road" carries personal resonance with me. I'm a Sikh and a large portion of Coll's book deals with the Sikh-India conflict from 1984-1996. Coll renders a damning portrait of India's "super cop" K.P.S. Gill, himself a Sikh. Gill succeeded in breaking the Sikh independence movement by instituting a bounty system whereby Indian police and security forces collected huge cash rewards for every Sikh militant that they killed. This system led to innocent Sikh youth being mass murdered so that their state sponsored killers could cash in. Some accused Sikh militants were "killed" repeatedly so that greedy policeman could collect multiple bounties. I actually met K.P.S. Gill and asked him about the abduction and slaying of Sikh human rights lawyer Jaswant Singh Kalra. Gill avoided this issue because he is widely suspected as the officer who tortured and murdered Mr. Kalra. Gill defended his actions by saying that his duty required him to follow orders. What about your consicence I asked? No reply. Coll calls Gill a "nihilist" who can only destroy and never create. Based on my personal conversations with Gill, I would agree. The most damning proof of Gill's guilt is his alcohol fueled state. The booze dulls the conscience, after all.

I picked up this book at the library based on the title and the pretty neat cover photo and artwork. It figured to be a reasonably interesting travelogue about an area I wasn't overly familiar with. It only took a few pages to realize that I was quite mistaken. The author, a former Washington Post correspondent covering South Asia from 1989-92, has written a variably readable introduction to the political and social dynamics of India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Afghanistan and Nepal. By far the most attention is given to India and Pakistan, as these are the two areas he appears to have spent the most time in. The best parts of the book are those in which he relates little vignettes which serve to underscore a broader point or illustrate a particular nuance of a region. Unfortunately, there are also long dry spells which threaten to glaze one's eyes. By far the most compelling portion is the 26 pages in which the author recounts his investigation into the 1988 plane crash which killed the Pakistani leader, General Zia, many of his top military aides, and US Ambassador Arnold Raphel. This disturbing chapter is a page-turner which ends with no resolution, but is deeply affecting. As a whole, this is good reading for someone who wants a casual introduction to the forces at work in South Asia. Amazingly enough, you will have to provide your own map, as the publishers didn't see fit to include any.