First rule of riding the subway: Don't talk to strangers. Don't even look at anyone. But what if they're grouchy and gorgeous and you're sitting right next to them? I always did like a challenge. I want to turn that frown upside down, but he barely looks at me. I take a chance and poke the bear, and to my shock, he plays along and growls back. The more we meet on the train, the more I realize...