Marcella Cucina

Reading `Marcella Cucina', the fourth book by culinary educator Marcella Hazan doubles my dispair at not reading her sooner, especially after just having read and reviewed her latest book, `Marcella Says'. This is not to say that the dozens of other books I have read on Italian cuisine are not good, it is just that Ms. Hazan is so obviously among the cream of the crop, I would have been a better judge of those other books if I had digested Ms. Hazan before sitting down at the table with Batalli, Bastianich, Bugialli, and a legion of Italian regional specialist writers plus all the writers covering the Mediterranean as a whole. This book has just a slightly less concentrated level of wisdom than the latest work, but you definitely deserve to own and read both if you are fond of Italian cooking. There is some overlap, but this volume is definitely superior to `Marcella Says' in several regards, especially in the very well illustrated instructions on making fresh pasta by hand. As the title suggests, `Marcella Cucina' is about the cooking which Ms. Hazan does in the privacy of her own kitchen. That is not to say that all the recipes are Hazan inventions constructed from whole cloth. My sense is that about half of the recipes are from native Italian cooks and professional chefs and about half are inventions of Ms. Hazan. But, even the inventions are so true to the spirit of the Italian table that you can hardly tell the difference. Ms. Hazan professes to be a great believer in the principle of `terroir', or things that grow together, go together. She has little use for fusion cooking. On the other hand, while she is a native of Emilia-Romagna and a resident of Venice when this book was written, Ms. Hazan takes her inspirations from all over the Italian peninsula, from Genoa and Venice in the north to Sicily in the south to Sardinia in the west. I always thought it ironic that my great culinary hero Mario Batali would constantly mention how so much of the Italian cuisine was based on poverty, and how, therefore, so much of the Italian cuisine was vegetarian, with meat being used more as a condiment than as a major source of protein. Yet, every `Molto Mario' show seemed to feature a dish involving a large hunk of pork or chicken or beef or lamb or veal, even if it was a `poor man's cut' such as the pig's jowl or the lamb's shoulder. Ms. Hazan does not commit that anomaly. Her subjects, in order of greatest to least number of recipes are: Pasta, including a 13 page essay with pictures on how to make fresh egg pasta using a manual pasta machine, a dowel rolling pin, and the Maccheroni alla Chitarra of Abruzzi. Like all great writers on Italian cuisine, Ms. Hazan does not look down on dry pasta. Fresh and dry pasta are two different products enhanced by two different types of sauces. She does look down on fresh supermarket pastas artificially kept soft with additives. She recommends fresh homemade pasta left to dry to soft supermarket fare doped with

Marcella Hazan has long been one of the most intuitive and concise cookery book authors. Here she gives a personal and detailed account of the food she loves to cook. The recipes are simple and effective and the commentary engaging to read. No Italian cookbook collection is complete without a Macella Hazan cookery book, "Marcella Cucina" is more than a must. Buon Gusto.!!

This book is simply the best Italian cookbook ever made; it contains good, affordable recipes and directions that are the most complete that I have ever used.

I adore this cookbook. The photographs are beautiful, the story behind each recipe is fascinating, the explanations are clear and the results are superb. I am awed by Marcella Hazan's ability to take simple ingredients and create fantastic results with sheer technique and attention to details, such as slicing vs. chopping garlic, sauteing certain ingredients for a long time and adding others for a short time, using butter here and olive oil there and even just plain vegetable oil at other times. There are two summer pasta sauces with nearly identical ingredients, and, as Marcella points out, completely different results. I have made almost all of the sauces and none have been less than delicious. I have discovered the joy of pancetta thanks to this book. I have learned how to make risotto, very good and not all that difficult. Now I am venturing into the meats - the beef stew with capers, cornichons and pancetta was amazing. I have learned alot about good cooking from this book, and not just of Italian food. Marcella's cooking is alive and accessible and completely masterful at the same time.