Learning to Bow: Inside the Heart of Japan

Bruce Feiler spent a year teaching English in a Japanese junior high school in Tochigi prefecture. His book contains both his observations on the Japanese school system and his own experiences as an American living in Japan for the first time. He also takes time to explain unfamiliar aspects of the culture, from Shinto religious practices to the evolution of the Japanese school lunch. This is a very appealing introduction to Japan from a young man who admires many aspects of Japanese culture but does not hesitate to criticize other aspects. There are some wonderful set pieces, such as his introduction to an onsen (hot spring) communal bath, his stay in a hospital, and his climb of Mt. Fuji. Feiler was in Japan in the late 80's, so some of his observations are, of course, dated, but that's hardly a good reason not to read this fine book. How could a memoir not be "dated" in the sense that it conveys a particular time and place? Feiler's strength as a writer is the blend of sharp observation and humor (including the self-deprecating kind) that he brings to his book. He depicts very well the sort of "lost in translation" moments that any traveler to Japan (or any other unfamiliar place) is bound to have. A further plus is the way he avoids the hushed, reverential tone found in some other accounts by travelers to Japan. This is a particularly useful book if you are planning a trip to Japan yourself.

Every gaijin (foreigner) who visits or lives in Japan is going to have a completely different experience, and thankfully, Feiler wrote his impressions down. My uncle gave me this book in hardback when it first came out in 1991 because Feiler is from his hometown of Savannah, Georgia. I'm glad to see it's still in print in paperback because it's a classic that anyone interested in Japanese culture should read. Feiler begins his book by bravely stating, "I dropped my pants and felt a rush of cool wind against my legs." He's standing on a stone path in the cool of evening his first night out of Tokyo. Twelve sets of eyes peer curiously at him, whom we learn are his new co-workers in the school where he's teaching. Yes, this is quite a bit of culture shock. Whereas in the states, a new teacher might be taken to a luncheon, Feiler says, "As a newcomer in Japan, I would be welcomed into my office as I was welcomed into the world: with a bare body and a fresh bath." The author's sense of humor is evident throughout the book, and he spices up a tremendous volume of research with his engaging narrative. Since he's encountering everything for the first time, he describes his reactions in a way that helps initiate readers into Japan's fascinating and unique culture. I found it amazing that Feiler could experience so much in one year. For example, he breaks his ankle and must visit a hospital, which makes one understand why studying the Japanese language before embarking can come in handy. (Feiler appears to be fluent; did he learn that at Yale?) He attends sports day, field trips, city and small-town events, a wedding, and of course, the climactic journey up Mt. Fuji. Feiler's trip up Mt. Fuji was my favorite part of the book, and something I longed to do when I visited the Tokyo area -- yet I traveled mid-peak by car instead of on foot. When the author finally makes it to the top, he describes his view for us armchair travelers: "Standing on an isolated spot atop this ancient volcano, far removed from the crowds of Tokyo...we popped open our bottle of imported champagne and beheld the sight that has inspired a nation since the gods of heaven first descended the bridge to the Land of the Central Plain: the caress of the Rising Sun." (This ancient myth is explained in detail in the book.) If you're planning on going to teach or travel in Japan, Feiler's work is a must-read; for no other reason, it will whet your appetite for writing down your own experiences (yes, he must have carried a notebook everywhere he went!). But you definitely should read more recent literature written by other travelers, as well as by native Japanese. I also recommend a good basic Nihongo course, so you'll be able to navigate the train systems in case you journey outside of the major cities. Or if by chance you end up in the hospital with a broken something or other. --Reviewed by Heather Lynn Ivester

Bruce Feiler was one of the first participants on the JET program, a program sponsored by the Japanese government to bring foreign young people to Japan for the purposes of education and "internationalization." While Feiler's experiences are a little unusual, in that he can already speak Japanese when he arrives and the events at his school are rather dramatic, overall his story reflects the life of a typical JET program participant. The culture shock, the unbending bureaucracy, the complex and often disaffected attitudes of students, the instant celebrity and lack of privacy that goes with it, are all symptoms that JETs experience. I read the book and often found myself nodding in agreement, having experience the same events and feelings myself. If you want to have an intimate look at the world of education in Japan today, Feiler's book is an excellent place to start. If you are thinking about joining the JET program, this book is a must, along with Importing Diversity.

I remember before I left for my first trip to Japan in 1996, reading about Feiler and his adventures in an Onsen hot springs. I remember his description of having to take of all his clothes and bathe in front of all these Japanese guys he just met. Any yet, during my trip in 1996 the same thing happened to me! I felt just like Feiler! The book is informative about Japanese culture and at the same time a great read. Its a must read if you plan to visit Japan...especially if you are a teacher.

As an employee of a Japanese company I expecially enjoyed this insightful revelation of everyday life in small town Japan. The writing is very clear and fast paced. I could feel myself in his shoes much of the time and at several points laughed out loud. He has a strong entry to start the book that "hooked" me within 10 pages. I strongly reccommend this for anyone curious about the world and especially for anyone working with or for the Japanese. Great cultural insights are provided as well as a clear explanation of the mechanisms, style, strengths and weaknesses of their school system, parenting and home life