K2, The Savage Mountain: The Classic True Story Of Disaster And Survival On The World's Second-Highest Mountain

At 28,250 feet, K-2 is the world's second highest mountain, 800 feet less than Everest. Mentally add 6,000 feet to K-2 for sheer meanness. Everest is considered a "snow" mountain; K-2 has everything. Snow, ice, rock, constant avalanches, loose shale and a generally evil disposition. In 1953, an eight-man American team attempted to summit K-2. The book tells us of their meticulous preparations, financing and outfitting. I was struck by the fact the cost estimate for the entire 8-man expedition was $25,000. I recently read the cost for one ~person~ to join an Everest expedition is $80,000!The two authors come across as fine, honorable, decent men. The entire team's bravery in adversity is inspiring. After a spell of fine weather during the first part of their ascent, all their luck went against them. One team member became seriously ill and a bitter storm locked them in their "camp" for seven days. The camp was a mere outcropping on a rocky ledge. The wind almost blew them off their fragile platform. They were determined to carry out their dangerously ill member. The task was almost impossible to contemplate, let alone carry out. They were not successful only because the storm was so unrelenting. I will not spoil the book for you by describing their descent. The authors will astound you with their story. Highly recommended

Houston, Bates and Bell's account of their "53 attempt to reach K2 is absolutely through in its coverage. If this wasn't enough, they manage to allow us to share this epic struggle not only through their clear descriptions of the events but also by giving us their honest emotions. It was truly a well-chosen team who deeply cared for each other. How noble of them to attempt to save their dying fellow climber Gilkey when most would have thought it folly and how miraculous the survival of their big fall. I have a feeling that a weaker team would not have gotten back off the mountain. Excellent book.

A riveting read, this book chronicles the 1953 Third American Karakoram Expedition. The authors, members and integral part of that illustrious team of eight expeditioners, regale the reader with their account of the tragic circumstances with which they were faced while attempting to summit K2, a five mile high mountain, second only to Everest in height but infinitely more perilous to ascend.The book recounts the myriad of detail which went into the formulation of that expedition, from the selection of its respective team members to the type and quantity of supplies necessary for such an ambitious endeavor. The book, in fact, includes a series of appendixes which lists in minute detail a day to day travel chronology of the expedition, a list of all equipment necessary, the breakdown of the various foods taken, the medical supplies needed for the venture, and a list of financial costs and transport requirements. In short, it provides everything one may have ever wanted to know about what goes into mounting an expedition. Nostalgia buffs, as well as climbing enthusiasts, will revel in the plethora of information! The book also grounds the reader in the historical, as well as geographical, pedigree of K2 and the challenges which it has presented over time. It recounts the previous reconnaissances and expeditions which had traveled to the environs of K2. Interestingly enough, on this expedition, unlike prior ones, Hunza mountain porters from a small border state in northern Pakistan, rather than Sherpas, were employed, due to the prevailing political winds of the time. The journey of the expedition over the remote and primitive reaches of the then infant country of Pakistan is a death defying venture in and of itself. Imagine the expedition with its hundred and twenty five native Balti porters, each carrying sixty pound loads, crossing raging rivers in ancient barges said to be similar to those used by Alexander the Great in leading his armies across the same river! At other times, they crossed turbulent river waters, using rafts made up of inflated animal bladders which were lashed together. They traversed across wide gorges over bridges made of woven willows and twigs. These so called bridges had an alarming tendency to turn upside down, promising to send the hapless traveler to a certain death below! Fortunately, the expedition was able to avert death at this stage of its journey.Upon reaching Base Camp, an assault upon K2 was quickly launched. With the assistance of the Hunzas and a stretch of good weather, Camps I through III were established with a minimum of fuss. The Hunzas, however, did not progress beyond Camp III, as the expedition members felt it wiser to ascend without them, given the Hunzas' limited high altitude experience and equipment. From then on, the expeditioners, eager for a summit bid, did all the loading and carrying work up the mountain, ultimately establishing Camp VIII at an elevation of about 25,500 feet. It was there th

I remember first reading this book as a teenager in the early 1960s, and the spellbinding story told by authors Charles Huston and Robert Bates of the fateful attempt to first scale K2, the second highest mountain in the world, is one that helped to hook me at that tender age on a lifetime of reading and a love for the great outdoors. The saga of the team's creation, the mustering of the incredible logistics support required to mount a credible assault on the extremely remote peak, and the long and arduous trek into the interior to reach the base camp location is a wonderful adventure story, but only a prelude to the incredible and harrowing events to follow. The assault was a failed effort, and a disastrous experience that left several members of the team dead, and forced the surviving members of the bizarre accident to transport a badly injured colleague perilously back down the treacherous slopes to the base camp far below. The book is a wonderful introduction to the offbeat world of the world of mountaineering, and one that left this reader breathless just in reading about the climber's courage and tenacity under the worst weather conditions imaginable here on earth. So, I was pleasantly surprised to find this book reissued after all these years, and bought myself the hardcover as it is a book I love having both for its content as well as its sentimental value. This is a book one can enjoy oneself and share with any family member with confidence, knowing that even Ernest Hemingway would agree with the verdict that it is a damn fine read. Enjoy.

Charles Houston and Robert Bates followed up their book Five Miles High (the story of the 1938 American expedition to K2) with this book, the firsthand story of the 1953 American expedition to K2. Once again the lenghthy trek just to reach the mountain is described along with the actual attempts to reach the summit. As was true with Five Miles High, various team members contributed chapters to the book. Several particularly gripping and memorable chapters describe the team's efforts to survive high on the mountain during a severe storm lasting for days as well as their unbelievable descent with a gravely injured team member. This book is well worth reading and will give you an excellent feel for the '53 attempt to climb the world's second highest peak.