This is the story of a reverse pilgrimage. Instead of packing our bags to visit the site of a miracle, the miracle came to us.Every Pascha, a miracle takes place at the tomb of Christ in Jerusalem: a mysterious blue flame descends, and set candles spontaneously on fire. For the first half hour or so the flame is mysteriously cool, and hair or clothing placed in it do not ignite. This miracle has happened every year from the 9th century.The flame descended...