In this thrilling and candid memoir, world record-holding and controversial Big Wave surfer Garrett McNamara chronicles his emotional quest to ride the most formidable waves on earth. Garrett McNamara--affectionately known as GMac--set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazar , Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult...