The Cuisine of Hungary

For many who have been fortunate enough to have had it, there is nothing better than good Hungarian food. As the child of a political refugee from Communist Hungary and an American mother who embraced Hungarian culture and language, and also having had the good fortune to visit Hungary many times, I have been familiar with and loved Hungarian cuisine for a long time. I have also been frustrated in my search for a good, thorough, Hungarian cookbook, and generally have to look through several I own anytime I'm trying to find a recipe. Finding authentic recipes has become even more difficult in the last decade or so, as more and more Hungarian recipes have become westernized and modified even in Hungary. Mr. Lang's book is the best, most useful, and completely thorough on authentic Hungarian cooking that I have found. It has enabled me to recreate some of the most delicious dishes my grandmother served me, as well as some of the exceptional pastries and cakes that were commonplace in Hungarian and Austrian coffee houses in the past. Mr. Lang's recipes are excellent, and will enable anyone to cook truly great Hungarian food. Additionally, for those who are interested (or who may become interested through experiencing the cuisine,) Mr. Lang has included a masterfully researched section on the history and culture of Hungary. A great book for those who simply enjoy creating and eating good food, to those who are already knowledgable of Hungarian cooking and culture.

This is a wonderful book, full of quirky facts and Hungarian cooking history. The author is opinionated in the most delightfully Hungarian way.Did you know, for example, that just as "the secret of the abundance of good Hungarian string instrumentalists is that they have a well developed "sound sense", it is most probable that Hungarian housewives and cooks are either born with or develop a keen "soup sense"? No? Or what about this gem: "it wouldn't be too farfetched to say that Hungary specialises in winning international culinary battles and losing revolutions". Hmm. The French and Italians might have a thing or two to say about that. To use it as a cookbook, you pretty much need to be an experienced cook. How about the soup recipe that begins, "first mince some meat"? Or the one that half way through instructs you to "make a roux" with no further hints? I've made about 10 recipes from this book. With the exception of simple dumplings, none has taken less than an hour, most upwards of two. Oh yes, the result is worth it. Yummm. It's just not for the fainthearted.Buy the book for the history and other reading. For example, a list of actions Hungarian farmers were required to perform each month in 1674. A sample: February - Every fifth day you have to give kiln-dried beans to peacocks to make sure that they will lay eggs speedily enough.March - Put three goose eggs under the stork and when they hatch take them away from the stork. You can catch crabs with frog's legs, and fish with your hands if you smear your feet and legs with a mixture of melted game grease and honey.April - buy salt for the summer and put carp into the lake.No explanation for why the eggs go under the stork! And where do you get the carp from?There are examples of original recipes from an 1826 cookbook (cut out the bone from a piece of good beef...); a New Year's Day menu for a Count in 1603 - consisting of two 18 course meals; and a detailed account of different regions' traditions.It's wonderful stuff.

I found an old copy in a library book sale. It is full of old recipes for authentic Hungarian food. In other words, it's a pretty rare bird in the US; no one cooks like this any more with the advent of fast food, takeout, and three-career families. I have so far used two of the dessert recipes. They aren't difficult, just time consuming. One cake took me close to three hours, clean-up time included. A big stand mixer is almost required for several of the cakes in here; I would NOT recommend trying some of these by hand unless you have very strong arms and a copper egg bowl. OTOH, the results are delicious, and vanish rapidly.