Gentleman's Guide to Grooming and Style

Want to improve your "way to a girl's heart" or improve your millionaire match? Get this book. If you use these grooming and style tips, you are on your way (from bedroom to the most elite party?.

This book is widely regarded as something of a classic - and for good reason. It has been translated into no less than 17 languages. Of all books on the subject it is the most encyclopaedic in thoroughly covering everything from shaving, to suits, to sportswear, knitwear, dressing gowns and much more. The whole book is crammed with succinctly presented information from start to finish that it becomes a perfect reference book to keep on the shelf. For many people the question will be whether to choose this or Allan Flusser's 'Dressing the Man'. The answer is really that they serve different purposes. If you quickly want to know how to look your best for a job interview in a suit then go for Flusser, as his book best explains suits in greater detail, and better still, tells you how to coordinate it with the shirt and tie. Roetzel tends to be more segmented and tells you less about how to coordinate the different items. However, Roetzel great strength is that he has countless little tips jam-packed into his book that Flusser never touches on. One point at which Roetzel thoroughly surpasses Flusser is in his section on shoes, which is by far and away superior. The plethora of full colour photographs of different shoe types and on what occassion they should be worn has superior clarity to the brief and poorly illustrated overview dealt the topic by Flusser. Other places that Roetzel surpasses Flusser is his discussion on items such as sport coats, overcoats, socks, as well as with extremely useful tips such as how to fold a suit jacket when travelling, and even the best way to iron a shirt. One point worth mentioning is that the book is orientated towards an English ideal of what a 'gentleman' is. However, the book was originally written in German and also gives a good continental perspective on how the French, German and Italians have adopted English fashion. Of course the likes of Ralph Lauren and Alan Flusser still strive to recreate the classical English look to the point that these Americans strive for an ideal more English than the English themselves. What you will read here is therefore perfectly adaptable to New England in the United States and unless you are a Southerner in your seersucker or linen suit there will be precious little that fails to translate into an American setting. Also Ivy League looks do get a bit of mention even if it presents an idealized and nostalic Ivy League look of yesteryear more American than Americans.

Mr. Roetzel's book is an excellent place to start for those who want to learn the basics of men's fashion - and to move beyond. To roughly paraphrase its author: before one can "push the envelope" in terms of style, one must first understand what the social conventions are. This book can provide one with the foundational understanding of conventional modes of dress. Once armed with this basic understanding, one can adjust the norms to suit one's personal tastes or move beyond even this lofty goal to set the trend among friends and acquaintances. This book covers the major aspects of choosing clothing by identifying well-known (quality) brands and famous clothiers. Although the author's tastes are markedly Anglo-centric, there's nothing wrong with this. After all, if you're reading this review, you have the means to order many of the manufactured items he recommends. Additionally, the author explains how to identify quality in case you are adventurous (and tasteful) enough to explore new brands. The true gentleman recognizes the utility of brand identification in selecting goods known for their quality, but his devotion is never slavish. This book will help you understand what makes a brand memorable. Aside from fashion, the book covers many aspects of lifestyle, including the appreciation of smoking, spirits and shaving. If not for the difficulty in finding it, I might recommend this book to every young man as a coming of age gift, as well as for those who manifest an interest in taste rather later in life. For those who have already developed a sensible style, the book may be consulted either to check one's instincts or to find something new along similar lines. This book expressed ideas very similar to my own (tobacco being the exception) and was thus useful - because I approve of the author's taste, I have no doubt that his authority can be a trusted aid in exploring new brands and styles. This book can be difficult to find, but if it's available, buy it. UPDATE: Since writing this review, I bought a copy of Alan Flusser's Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion. Roetzel's book is more inclusive, and provides a guide to brands which can be very helpful to the initiate. As other reviewers have since noted, he also has an enviable discussion of shoes. If you can only afford one of these books, I'd suggest Roetzel's treatise. But if you can afford it, Flusser's classic is a great compliment. Also, since the initial review, I bought and read copies of a number of books (hard to find and out of print!) cited by Roetzel in his bibliography. Roetzel's book definitely transcends those sources.

This book will tell you where to find the best in suits, shirts and shoes and will save you years of experimentation which will eventually lead you to the same conclusions as the author. Even if you are not interested in paying $3500 for your next suit or $3000 for a pair of hand made shoes from John Lobb's of London this book is worth every cent you pay for it. It is well prepared and holds a wealth of interesting information

Bernhard Roetzel's "Gentleman" is one of two definitive works on classic style for men. The other book is Flusser's "Dressing the Man." While Flusser's work is primarily concerned with developing a classic style for business dress, Roetzel's "Gentleman" is about creating a classic, elegant life style. Following Mr. Retzel's philosophy, style is not something we do for others. The pursuit of style is for one's own personal satisfaction. Therefore, Mr. Roetzel focuses on an understated, conservative elegance, with an acknowledgment of the importance of details, even if no one else notices. Roetzel's book focuses on mens fashion, with a bias toward tailored English clothing, but he goes beyond business clothing, to address casual, sport, and home style. In addition to the obligatory chapters on suits, shoes, and casual dress, there are sections on grooming and fragrance, hairstyles, wristwatches, and how to enjoy an elegant, relaxing breakfast at home. This book is a treatise on gracious living, and he introduces his readers to many of the small luxuries which no one should miss out on: the experience of a traditional shave from a good English barber; a pair of shell cordovan shoes; a bespoke suit; a comfortable and beautiful dressing robe. His philosophy is best exemplified by the section on eating breakfast, where he exhorts one to begin the day with a leisurely elegant ritual including "perfectly toasted bread." Personally, I barely ever eat breakfast, but the call to slow down and take the time to enjoy life's small pleasures resounds loudly none the less. The book is not perfect, and Mr. Roetzel has some rather quaint and outdated ideas (such as the kind of clothes worn by students at Ivy League universities.) Overall, however, the book is an excellent roadmap for those who wish to live a cut above the norm in this too-fast, hyper-casual, overly-efficient, mass-produced, machine-made, often-shoddy world.