Eighty-two years after Moses Dibobis escaped from the Lithuanian hamlet of Birzai with nothing but a sack lunch, the author journeys back to this former Soviet enclave looking for a link to his grandfather--something greater than their shared receding hairline and sense of humor. What he finds on this wild road trip is a place where premium vodka is cheaper than water, spa treatments are more than a little invasive, and that Stalin theme parks are...