Fish: The Complete Guide to Buying and Cooking

Of all the single topics on which cookbooks have been written, it seems to me that fish is the most common. It is certainly true if you look at my library, where there are seven (7) volumes devoted to fish in general, fish of a particular region, or even one family of fish such as the salmon or oysters. Not only is it a popular subject, but it is a popular subject for prominent male cookbook authors. In my library alone, there are volumes by James Beard, James Peterson, Alan Davidson, and the current volume by Mark Bittman. All of these authors are simply dripping with awards for cookbook writing.There are at least two different approaches one can take to a single subject cookbook. James Peterson in his books on Fish, Sauces, and Vegetables tends to take a deep look, with more details about a fewer number of recipes. Mark Bittman, in this book, tends to take exactly the opposite approach. His main selling point is that he is giving us `more than 500 recipes for 70 kinds of fish and seafood'.Fitting this approach, the book is laid out very much like an encyclopedia, with all articles on fish labeled by their common names, placed in alphabetical order. Each article begins with a taxonomic section giving both common and scientific names, common commercial forms, general description, substitutions, and reference to buying tips. The scientific name may not be very informative, as a common name such as shrimp may be applied to not only multiple species, but also multiple genera covering thousands of species. The general description is also a mixed bag in that it may be anything from physical description to geographical distribution to economic importance. The most important item in this header is the `For other recipes see:' entry. This is where you see that a recipe that is good for conch, mussels, or oysters may also be good for clams. I get some sense that the author could have exercised some restraint here. As an example, consider that while squid and shrimp share the property of being done best by cooking very quickly, I may be reluctant to apply a long cooking squid recipe, the kind Mario Batali describes as giving a `bottom of the sea' flavor to any kind of shrimp.The essay introducing each named fish can vary from three pages for `shrimp' down to three lines for `tilapia'. The longer essays are very informative and, as far as I can see, very accurate. I can also add that they can express very strong opinions about some fish. The very short entry for tilapia dismisses the flesh of the fish as having an undesirable, murky flavor. The author gives no recipes for this poor fish and simply leaves us to consult the recipes for porgy and sea bass.The number of recipes per fish is roughly proportional to the economic desirability and availability of the fish. Shrimp, for example, gets twenty recipes including three different versions of curried shrimp. Other classic recipes such as crab cakes also get more than one treatment. Oddly enough, the best-kno

A plethora of useful info on the subject, well written. It begins with what all of chefs speak strongly on the subject, the ability to purchase fish with confidence. I especially enjoy his admittance that he too as many of us approach our fishmonger with the question, "what's fresh today?" to be answered, "everything!" He provides great insights and helps to aid in discussion with our fishmonger or even some tips on packaged fish. Further, he gives what I think is the best advice on how to store and freeze fish.The recipes come with the caveat that there will be no "marinated shrimp wrapped in ham over a red-peppercorn passion-fruit sauce, etc." recipes. These recipes are just plain designed to bring the best out in the individual fish/seafood being served. One must not think than that it's just a question of bake, saute, fry. Here one will find technique and accompaniments targeted for each fish/seafood. One can easily experience after trying several that this guy has did his homework, combining elements which allow the fish at hand to truly shine forth with all its flavor. For example, one fish that my monger seems to have fresh in abundance, Porgy, Bittman offers in a chowder like version, "Cotriade: Fish and Potato Stew," comibing bacon, onion and thyme in a great combo. Consider also what he does with Sea Bass, "Crispy Sea Bass with Garlic-Ginger Sauce." This is a knockout dish, expertly offered crispy in shallow bath of vegetable oil, covered with sauce flavored marvelously with ginger to make the bass sing!His shellfish recipes are just as delicious and rightly paired. Outstanding also is buying tips on each species in addition to possible fish substitutes for most recipes.The only drawback for us in the Great Lakes is an absence of the great fish we have here, especially the Lake Whitefish,although there are recipes here which will work.

This book is the best. The recipes are simple, straightforward, delicious, and predominently low in fat. Most helpful to me, Bittman details what fish can be substituted for the named fish in each of the recipes. Of the dozens of recipes I've tried, not one has been a clunker.

This cookbook is thorough and accurate in educating anyone on the selecting,buying, and preparing of seafood. I was well prepared after reading this cookbook to visit my seafood shop and intelligently discuss seafood with my fish monger. It allowed me to ask pertinent questions that I would not otherwise have known to ask. I was also able to judge if my fish monger was knowledgable and honest in giving me information regarding my seafood purchases. The recipes were tried and true, allowing the homecook to prepare first time dishes to perfection . I particularly like the common sense issues such as suggesting in each recipe several different types of fish which could be substituted and the author's wonderful approach to presenting the truth about fish consumption. I daresay the health police are valiantly exposed in their misrepresentation of the facts on seafood. This is a excellent book for the person who makes seafood a part of their regular menu.