Bali: Sekala & Niskala Vol. 1

I am Balinese and live in Ubud in the cultural center of Bali.In the Eighties I used to see Fred Eiseman, with a notebook and pen in his hand, at temple ceremonies all over the island, and in my restaurant, taking voluminous notes. I often wondered what he was up to.Now I know. He has produced the most detailed descriptions yet of most aspects of Balinese life and culture. He lives down in Jimbaran on the south coast, so many of his descriptions relate particularly to that area - practices change a bit in different places.He understands the Balinese language, which is not the case with many academics, who visit Bali briefly and write learned treatises, and don't always get it right. Fred's book is extremely well researched, and my only criticism is the detail (in places) and the repetition. That is because the book is a collection of essays. It does mean, however, that you can dip in and out of any chapter. They are self-contained, and that is useful.

A compilation of essays about Balinese religion and culture, author sometimes ends up repeating himself (though he does warn the reader of this, right off the bat). But it's really a wonderful volume for anyone who wants an in-depth understanding of the Balinese.Eiseman is thorough in his detail, but the style is not at all dry and academic. There are lovely little personal anecdotes, and it really comes from the heart of a man who has spent much of his life in Bali.Cosmology and religion are covered in this volume, such as an explanation of how a home is built with respect to cosmic forces and directions. There is a valuable guide to festivals, complete with calendar. Especially fun is Balinese astrology, and the author writes extensively about this. A possible approach: read the Lonely Planet cultural section first, then go to Bali, then read Eiseman.

Although it won't tell you where to stay or which restaurant to visit, the book is a great, unpretensious guide to the elaborate daily rituals of the Balinese, written by an American who's developed something of an obsession with Bali. It offers the clearest descriptions available of mask making, Balinese dance, temple rituals and offerings. The book is so good you'll find it on every coffee table in Bali.

This book covers Balinese religions and culture in ways that are both informative and useful for the serious traveller/tourist or casual student of Bali. Having spent six months in Bali in the '70's and having read extensively, I am even more enthusiastic about this book. Volume two covers more limited and esoteric topics. You should get a good map to accompany this book.