Alfred Portale's Gotham Bar and Grill

Portale is not trying to train you to step up to the saucepan at Gotham and will not have you spending your Saturdays peeling grapes a la Thomas Keller's "French Laundry" cookbook. He's also not trying to give you a complete course in basic techniques a la Julia Child's "The Way to Cook". Instead, what you get is more of a philosophy and a sketchbook. The introductory essay, titled "Cooking Like a Chef at Home", is both insightful and inspiring. The recipes, which are presented in their basic form and presentation are sometimes followed with "flavor building" tips (usually additions, like roast shallots for lamb), "variations" (usually substitutions, say of sea bass for red snapper), and sometimes "Gotham Presentation". Given Portale's trademark towering presentations, it's disappointing that there's not more detail in the book (though he does let you in on how the seared tuna with papardelle and red wine sauce is put together in the restaurant, which is one of my all time favorite dishes). Judging from the end of the introductory essay, Portale's just tired of people focusing on presentation more than flavor. The terse writing and lack of meticulously detailed instructions is a huge contrast with my three other favorite cookbooks named after restaurants: Deborah Madison's "Greens", Alice Waters' "Chez Panisse", and Barbara Tropp's "China Moon". I typically consult all of these books and a few more when I cook something to triangulate both technique and proportions. For instance, consider Portale's recipe for mashed potatos (half of page 206). There are two fundamental clues in this recipe that have transformed my spuds. First, after boiling the potatos, Portale has you return them to the pan to evaporate extra moisture. The critical idea is that the potatos should be dry before you mash them. (Also important for making light gnocchi.) It's the idea and goal that are important -- other chefs get dry potatos differently, say by not peeling or quartering the potatos first. Second, use a potato ricer. The difference between that and blending or using a masher is amazing. You'll have to read other cookbooks to learn that you shouldn't overmash your potatos or they'll become sticky. Ironically, the potatos at the restaurant are not riced, at least with the lamb chops, although I imagine they might be with other dishes; the point is that once you know what's going to happen, you have control. Sadly, Portale doesn't provide photos or instructions on the Gotham presentation, which is in a large scoop set atop a carved-out baked potato with the trademark flying herbs. In the interest of full disclosure, I must admit that I live a block and a half from Gotham Bar and Grill and it's one of my favorite restaurants in the world. If you go there, you can get a copy of this book signed along with a nice little ink illustration of a simmering dish by the chef.

I have been a amateur cook for approximately 4 years and only fantasized about making dishes like the ones in this book. I found all of these recipes very easy to follow and the methods are not confusing. Preparing these kinds of elaborate dishes(seafood salad, soft shell crabs, bouillabaisse, and stocks, etc.)has always intimidated me and I never took the initiative to try. I am so glad I bought this book. It has elevated my cooking and most importantly - my presentation. This book has encouraged me to create dishes on my own. It's a great inspiration.Also, at the beginning of the book, it talks about how the Gotham restaurant operates and how it (and Mr. Portale) got started - very interesting.

I have been a long time fan of Gotham Bar a Grill in NYC and I received this wonderful cookbook as a gift for Christmas. I recently became interested in cooking and had little to no experience in making anything appealing or delicious enough to feed others. This book not only educated me in the art of cooking but also instructed me on how to use the book. The little sidebars and helpful hints were great. Having eaten at Gotham countless times, I never thought that I could accomplish dishes so grand and sumptous - but I did!! I didn't think I could do it!!!

As a lifelong die hard collector of cookbooks and devoted amateur chef, this is the perfect book for those who wish to spend a little extra time to add real polish to their culinary skills and presentation. The recipes both taste and look wonderful -- there is much to be learned here, even for those with a good classical technique. Descriptions are unfailingly clear and each recipe is beautifully organized. One of those rare books where you feel compelled to cook your way from the first page on to the last.

The food at the resturant was fantastic and I seriously doubted that I could recreate such dishes as "Fetucccine with lobster bolognese sauce" but with the explicit directions and helpful suggestions, I was able to use the lobster shells to flavor the stock, then finish off the dish by adding just the right amount of tarragon and cream. Who would have thought that you would do anything but throw the shells in the garbage. It took four hours for me to make the dish but it was worth every second.