Climber's Guide to the Teton Range

If you are looking for a comprehensive, detailed, easy to understand reference guide to the history, approaches and routes of the peaks of the Grand Tetons...look no further. Complete with Topos, black and white Arial photographs, and hand drawn route diagrams, this guide is a "must have" in any mountaineer's quiver of guide books. The book opens with a history of the Grand Teton Range and introduces readers to the men and women who explored and developed many of the modern routes enjoyed by all today; particularly the "bold" first accents of the early Teton pioneers Paul Petzoldt and Glenn Exum. The meat of the book can be found in the remaining pages covering everything from, recommended equipment, mountain safety, to detailed accounts of the climbs and approaches on all the jagged peaks of the Teton Range. As a climber of 20+ years, I found this book to be extremely helpful on my trips to the Tetons and highly recommend this guide to anyone entertaining the possibility of climbing or hiking in the Teton Range. Whether you are a seasoned climber, or are considering cutting your teeth in one of the most spectacular mountain ranges the United States has to offer, consider this resource a must!

Excellent book. Clearly describes hundreds of routes with climbing topo's and ratings. Highly recommended.

A good climbing guide is a personal friend. You spend hours reading about possible climbs, adventures awaiting for you. There is much pleasure in browsing a climbing guide, remembering the climbs you have made, those climbs not completed due to severe weather or other reasons, and all those climbs you have yet to try. My Teton guidebook has particular value as I always inscribe notes about my climbs: the date, my companions, the weather, route finding tips (or conversely, where I went astray), elapsed time, and other items of interest. This third edition, 1996, is more than four hundred pages. It is much to bulky and heavy to carry on a climb. But it is a remarkable reference of virtually every climbing route in the Teton Range. The descriptions are detailed and well-written. I have not encountered any climbing guide that is comparable in detail and scope to this work by Leigh Ortenburger and Reynold Jackson. The number of routes and variations on the favorite peaks can be overwhelming. The most commonly used route is highlighted. Route descriptions range from easy scrambles to difficult climbs requiring substantial technical skill on ice, snow, and rock. Numerous excellent black and white photos with climbing routes overlain are scattered throughout the texts. Also, there are many detailed ink drawings of more difficult climbs. For climbers new to the Tetons, the authors have listed more than 130 of their favorite routes ranging from easy scrambles to severe climbs 5.12 in difficulty, as well as difficult technical ice climbing routes. The introduction, some sixty pages, is quite good. Major topics include a history of Teton climbing, descriptions of great climbs and traverses, details on the national park service policy, and a discussion of the difficulty rating system. The section on Teton weather and climatology is both helpful and sobering. Also, on more than one occasion I had reason to appreciate Ortenburger's and Jackson's bushwacking hints for those canyons without maintained trails. I have used A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range for many years beginning with the first edition dating back to the 1960s by Leigh Ortenburger. In the intervening years a condensed version, an extended version (volume 2), and a second and third edition have been published. This third edition is really quite exceptional and I highly recommend this guidebook to anyone planning to climb in Grand Teton National Park.

I used this book on a 3 week climbing trip where I climbed the Teton 7. On the routes I climbed I never felt as if I was misled or not provided crucial information. This is the best Teton guide book I have seen. There is such a wealth of information in this book that I couldn't imagine one person actually ever completing all of the routes. I chose to ignore one of the warnings in the guide book and did not rent a canoe for the approach to the CMC route on Mt. Moran (I instead walked around the lake). Lets just say they know what they are talking about. The only thing bad about it is that the book is rather large. Copy the pages you need and bring them on your climb.

After climbing for over 25 years, I've used a lot of climbing guide books in a lot of areas. With subsequent, rewritten editions, these guide books usually continue to improve. Some, like those for Yosemite or Grand Teton, have a history of well done guides, each building on the previous guide. But the new Climbers Guide to the Teton Range is a monumental leap forward. It is the best guide I've ever had the oportunity to read, or use, in any climbing area. When so many guidebooks have gone to simple "topo" drawings, it's nice to see a well done guide that still uses the written word. Although some topo drawngs are used in this book to flush out rock route discriptions, many of the alpine routes are represented in aerial photos, with written descriptions. These often include a history of the route and climbers involved in the first ascent. Besides history, the book also covers climatology, geology, approaches, winter climbing, and general area information. The photography is outstanding, with the routes well represented on them. This book is a must for anyone thinking of climbing in the National Park. It is also an interesting read, as the history and life stories of Teton climbers is sprinkled throughout the guidebook.